硬盘开盘资料

会员16282

Solution:

Cannibalize parts from another hard drive to get the first one functional.

I purchased an identical drive on eBay. However, I first tried the easy way out. I moved the new controller on to the old drive and powered it up.

BIG MISTAKE. The new controller immediately cooked itself. Now I was definitely sure that the chip mounted on the side of the head armature was directly responsible for dropping the voltage applied to the spindle motor. I imagine this pin shorts the controller which then stops applying voltage to the spindle motor. So I was exactly back where I began except that now I had two burned controllers.

I decided to do what had to be done and move the head from the good drive to the old drive. Moving the platters seemed impossible and obtaining the right tools would not be easy.

Required Tools:

Needle Nose Pliers.
Philips Head Screw Driver.
Small Flat Head Screw Driver
T9 Torx Head Screw Driver.
General Tips Before Starting:

Attempt to work in the cleanest area possible. A garage is usually not a good choice.
While working within the drive, work slowly and carefully. Be sure not to touch the platters with your fingers or tools! This will most likely damage the data on them.
The goal is to remove the heads from the good drive and then later transplanting them into the broken drive. Again, we are moving the heads since the bad chip is affixed to the head armature which directly connects to the actual read / write head. Since there is little chance of removing the chip successfully, I am attempting to move the entire head / arm mechanism instead.
Purpose:

To demonstrate a method for replacing the read / write head from a Maxtor d540x-4k020h1 (20gb 5400 rpm, single platter) hard disk.

Disclaimers/Caveats:

1) I take absolutely no responsibility for any damage accrued to any piece of hardware while attempting this procedure. It is 100% completely at your own risk. Opening the drive WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY!

The likelihood of success is STILL UNKNOWN since I have yet to receive a new controller. However, if you read on, you may come to realize the feasibility of such a task. If anyone has a Maxtor d540x-4k020h1 and is willing to sell it, please email me - Thank You.

2) Opening a hard disk and exposing it to the air may cause permanent damage to the data stored within.

3) The alignment of the permanent magnets may pose an issue. They need to be aligned exactly right. Take notice of the upper magnets position before you unscrew it.

Problem Description:

A friend of mine who runs a decent size manufacturing company had kept various pieces of data on this drive. Being only one year old, and part of his Dell computer, he never thought twice to back anything up.

Needless to say, the drive crashed without warning. Under close observation, I noticed that the drive didn't spin when powered up.

It seemed that either the controller was damaged, or the spindle motor had possibly burned out.

The data wasn't critical and most of it just needed to be typed back in. The finances weren't available to send the drive out to a data recovery center, their work often costs between $1500 to $5000 dollars USD. He had decided to forget about it unless a less expensive alternative could be found.

I was definitely up to the challenge; especially knowing there was nothing to lose.

Troubleshooting:

I began by inspecting the controller for obvious damage (i.e. burnt parts etc). At this time, I was unable to see a problem. However, I did remember that the drive did jitter when power was first applied, so I knew there was power on the spindle motor, at least for part of a second.

Furthermore, if power was present on the spindle motor, and it jittered momentarily then stopped, then the motor was either stuck, or perhaps the applied voltage had dropped.

I briefly opened the drive just to ensure the spindle motor wasn't jammed. It wasn't.

Then I closed the drive and began to troubleshoot an electrical problem. I removed the controller board from the drive and systematically masked off with masking tape the 20 pins or so between the controller and the internals of the hard drive.

After trying several pins, I managed to discover a pin which in fact, when covered (and the controller back on the board) allowed the drive to spin up properly. Unfortunately, the drive would not be detected by the BIOS, nor did there appear to be any head control. The drive would spin then slam the head side to side against the head stop inside the drive. This was definitely not good.

It seemed this pin had some vital role in controlling the head movements. After re-opening the drive, I traced the faulty pin to its destination, a small chip on the side of the armature carrying the head.



There was no way I could repair this - UNLESS...

Solution:

Cannibalize parts from another hard drive to get the first one functional.

I purchased an identical drive on eBay. However, I first tried the easy way out. I moved the new controller on to the old drive and powered it up.

BIG MISTAKE. The new controller immediately cooked itself. Now I was definitely sure that the chip mounted on the side of the head armature was directly responsible for dropping the voltage applied to the spindle motor. I imagine this pin shorts the controller which then stops applying voltage to the spindle motor. So I was exactly back where I began except that now I had two burned controllers.

I decided to do what had to be done and move the head from the good drive to the old drive. Moving the platters seemed impossible and obtaining the right tools would not be easy.

Required Tools:

Needle Nose Pliers.
Philips Head Screw Driver.
Small Flat Head Screw Driver
T9 Torx Head Screw Driver.
General Tips Before Starting:

Attempt to work in the cleanest area possible. A garage is usually not a good choice.
While working within the drive, work slowly and carefully. Be sure not to touch the platters with your fingers or tools! This will most likely damage the data on them.
The goal is to remove the heads from the good drive and then later transplanting them into the broken drive. Again, we are moving the heads since the bad chip is affixed to the head armature which directly connects to the actual read / write head. Since there is little chance of removing the chip successfully, I am attempting to move the entire head / arm mechanism instead.
Procedure:

·  First, remove the screws holding the controller board to the back of the drive.


The controller is the green thing

·  Pull the controller off.


Drive with controller off

·  Flip the drive over.


Time to unscrew

·  Remove the Philips head screws holding the drive cover in place. There are two T9 screws under the stickers, the hold the top of the spindle head armature bearings in place. Remove them. Remove any additional screws holding down the cover until the cover becomes loose.


Don't worry about the print, you'll get a closeup later

·  Take the cover off of the drive and set it aside.

·  Remove the two screws holding the pin bracket that attaches through the casing to the back side of the controller. Do not try to remove this yet.

·  Remove the single screw holding down the top magnet above the head armature.


Here's your closeup

·  VERY CAREFULLY, use a small flat head screw driver to pry the magnet off of its seat.


"Will this erase the charges on my credit card?"

WARNING! These magnets are very strong. Do not allow them to get any closer to the platters than they are while positioned in their mounting places. THIS WILL DESTROY any data on the platters!

·  Set the magnet down away from the drive and prepare your needle noise pliers. . . .

The next step is to remove the head locking mechanism.



·  Carefully squeeze this piece of plastic gently, but use a moderate amount of force to lift it off its mounting pin. It takes some effort, but it will come right up. Be careful! Both this plastic device as well as the one in the next step are both very fragile and can break easily if squeezed too hard!

·  Next, remove the head stop mechanism, located as shown in the picture just above. Again, squeeze gently and lift it straight off of the pin.

·  Gently slide the head off the platter. It will sit nicely in the air without the platter underneath it. DO NOT touch the heads with your fingers or any other material. This may damage them.


·  Now, prevent the head from moving by holding your finger above the bearing on top.


Giving it the finger

·  While doing this, turn the drive over. You will see a Torx screw just below the head (below the controller you removed). Remove this screw carefully. This is the last screw holding the heads into the drive chassis.

·  Lift the head straight out of the chassis. When it is clear, gently pull on the connection block you removed the screws from earlier. It will lift straight out of the chassis with the heads.


Getting (hard drive) head

会员10208

呃...能翻译成中文不..我看不大懂...

会员15379

有点难度！！！

会员14853

晕了，英文水平太差

会员8494

考试E文太差看不懂

会员18499

俺还要翻用俺的快译 麻烦！！！！！！！！！！！！！！

会员17532

全英文的，看不懂，有谁帮忙翻译一下．

会员18676

看不懂 不能翻译过来啊